savage early grapes
This summer’s heat has opened the eyes of many senior French winegrowers, whose grapes have ripened early in a brutal way, forcing them to start picking a week to three weeks earlier.
François Capdellayre, chairman of the Dom Brial winery in Baixa, Pyrénées-Orientales, said: “We are all a little surprised that the grapes are ripening very quickly today than in the past.”
As surprised by many as François Capdellayre, Fabre, president of the Vignerons indépendants, started picking white grapes on August 8, two weeks earlier than a year earlier. The heat accelerated the rhythm of plant growth and continued to affect its vineyards in Fitou, in the department of Aude.
“The temperature at noon is between 36°C and 37°C, and the temperature at night will not drop below 27°C.” Fabre described the current weather as unprecedented.
“For more than 30 years, I have not started picking on August 9,” says grower Jérôme Despey in the Hérault department.
savage early grapes
This summer’s heat has opened the eyes of many senior French winegrowers, whose grapes have ripened early in a brutal way, forcing them to start picking a week to three weeks earlier.
François Capdellayre, chairman of the Dom Brial winery in Baixa, Pyrénées-Orientales, said: “We are all a little surprised that the grapes are ripening very quickly today than in the past.”
As surprised by many as François Capdellayre, Fabre, president of the Vignerons indépendants, started picking white grapes on August 8, two weeks earlier than a year earlier. The heat accelerated the rhythm of plant growth and continued to affect its vineyards in Fitou, in the department of Aude.
“The temperature at noon is between 36°C and 37°C, and the temperature at night will not drop below 27°C.” Fabre described the current weather as unprecedented.
“For more than 30 years, I have not started picking on August 9,” says grower Jérôme Despey in the Hérault department.
Pierre Champetier from the Ardèche said: “Forty years ago, we only started picking around September 20. If the vine lacks water, it will dry up and stop growing, then stop supplying nutrients, and when the temperature exceeds 38 degrees Celsius , the grapes start ‘burning’, compromising in quantity and quality, and the heat can raise the alcohol content to levels that are too high for consumers.”
Pierre Champetier said it was “very regrettable” that a warming climate made early grapes more common.
However, there are also some grapes that have not encountered the problem of early ripening. For the grape varieties that make Hérault red wine, the picking work will still start in early September in previous years, and the specific situation will vary according to the precipitation.
Wait for the rebound, wait for the rain
Vineyard owners are hoping for a sharp rebound in grape production despite the heatwave engulfing France, assuming it rains in the second half of August.
According to Agreste, the statistics agency responsible for forecasting wine production at the Ministry of Agriculture, all vineyards across France will start picking early this year.
Data released on August 9 showed that Agreste expects production to be between 4.26 billion and 4.56 billion liters this year, equivalent to a sharp rebound of 13% to 21% after a poor harvest in 2021. If these figures are confirmed, France will regain the average of the past five years.
“However, if the drought combined with the high temperature continues into the grape picking season, it may affect the rebound of production.” Agreste pointed out cautiously.
Vineyard owner and president of the National Cognac Professional Association, Villar said that although the frost in April and the hail in June were unfavorable for grape cultivation, the extent was limited. I am sure that there will be rain after August 15th, and the picking will not start before September 10th or 15th.
Burgundy is also expecting rain. “Due to the drought and lack of rain, I have decided to postpone the harvest for a few days. Only 10mm of water is enough. The next two weeks are crucial,” said Yu Bo, president of the Burgundy Vineyards Federation.
03 Global warming, it is imminent to find new varieties of grapes
French media “France24″ reported that in August 2021, the French wine industry formulated a national strategy to protect vineyards and their production areas, and the changes have been rolled out step by step since then.
At the same time, the wine industry plays an important role, for example, in 2021, the export value of French wine and spirits will reach 15.5 billion euros.
Natalie Orat, who has been studying the effects of global warming on vineyards for a decade, said: “We have to make the most of the diversity of grape varieties. There are about 400 grape varieties in France, but only a third of them are used. 1. The vast majority of grape varieties are forgotten for being too low-profit. Of these historic varieties, some may be better suited to the weather in the years to come. “Some, especially from the mountains, mature later and seem to be particularly drought tolerant . “
In Isère, Nicolas Gonin specializes in these forgotten grape varieties. “This allows them to connect with local traditions and produce wines with real character,” for him, which has two benefits. “To combat climate change, we have to base everything on diversity. … This way, we can guarantee production even in frost, drought and hot weather.”
Gonin is also working with Pierre Galet (CAAPG), the Alpine Vineyard Centre, which has successfully re-listed 17 of these grape varieties into the National Register, a necessary step for the replanting of these varieties.
“Another option is to go abroad to find grape varieties, especially in the Mediterranean,” Natalie said. “Back in 2009, Bordeaux established a trial vineyard with 52 grape varieties from France and abroad, especially It’s Spain and Portugal to assess their potential.”
A third option is hybrid varieties, genetically modified in the lab to better withstand drought or frost. “These crosses are being carried out as part of disease control, and research on combating drought and frost has been limited,” said the expert, especially given the cost.”
The wine industry pattern will undergo profound changes
Elsewhere, wine industry growers decided to change the scale. For example, some have changed the density of their plots to reduce the need for water, others are considering using purified wastewater to feed their irrigation systems, and some growers have placed solar panels on the vines to keep the vines in the shade can also generate electricity.
“Growers can also consider relocating their plantations,” Natalie suggested. “As the world warms, some regions will become more suitable for growing grapes.
Today, there are already small-scale individual attempts in Brittany or Haute France. If funding is available, the future looks promising for the next few years,” said Laurent Odkin from the French Institute of Vine and Wine (IFV).
Natalie concludes: “By 2050, the wine industry growing landscape will change dramatically, depending on the results of trials currently being carried out across the country. Perhaps Burgundy, which uses only one grape variety today, will in the future Multiple varieties may be used, and in other new places, we may see new growing areas.”